Dissection: Bust Patterning

12/22/2014

Okay! It's now time to pattern out the bust panels. You'll need another dismantled paper bag, straight pins, a pen or pencil, a ruler and the top you're patterning.This is a little more complicated than the other pieces. The bust panels each have a dart and it will take some folding and fussing to see our lines clearly. But have no fear! You will get it. There are just a few more steps involved.

We're also only patterning one bust panel, since they are both identical. Clothing manufacturers assume that all women have 2 boobs of equal size. This isn't always fair or true, but it is how this top was made.

Here are the steps in picture format:

Two bust panels of a red knit top. The fabric is a textured, regular red stripe.

Closeup of one under bust dart on the top.

one front bust panel laid out on pattern paper with the other bust panel folded down.

Bust panel laying on the pattern paper with the inside seams visible.

Second bust panel pulled all the way aside to show the under bust seam.

A ruler measures the folded back seam allowance on the top of the bust panel.

Using a ruler to draw in a 1/2" seam allowance on the pattern paper.

Starting at the bottom edge, pinning the front edge of the bust panel so it lays smoothly along the line.

Pinning the front edge along the line all the way up to the shoulder seam.

Pulling aside the unpinned bust panel to reveal the under bust seam.

Pinning the outside of the under bust seam allowances to mark the line.

Marking the base of the dart with a pin.

Pinning the seam of the dart along the seam line.

Using a ruler to measure the bottom seam allowance of the dart.

Preparing to draw one half of the under bust seam.

Pulling up the fabric to reveal where the pins poke into the pattern paper.

Pen marks at the poiints where the pins go through the paper.

Pulling the fabric away from the pinned in dart to show where the pins poke into the paper.

The pinned dart line is marked with pen. A ruler lines up the top point of the pins to a dot 1 1/2" away from the lowest part of the dart.

Using the ruler to draw a line from the top of the dart line to the dot 1 1/2" away from the dart's bottom edge.

Taking the pins out of the under bust line.

A pin marks the bottom of the new dart line.

Removing the pin at the center front line of the bust panel.

Pulling up the fabric at the dart to reveal the new dart line.

Re-marking the top of the dart to center it, and then re-pinning the top of the dart through to the paper.

Smoothing down the bust panel from the dart to the side seam.

Pinning along the seam allowance of the shoulder seam.

Cross marks in pen on both sides of the shoulder seam

Pinning the armhole, under bust seam, and side seam down to the paper.

Dotted lines drawn outside the armhole and side seam.

Cross mark where the side seam meets the under bust line.

Pins in a row along the under bust line.

Pulling the fabric up to reveal the pin points.

Marking where the pins poke through into the paper

Keeping the seam allowances folded away from the body of whatever you're patterning helps a lot. It lets you see the seam lines clearly and also lets you pin out an exact seam allowance. That way, you don't have to add those allowances later.

Congratulations! You've patterned the bust panel. Next time we'll clean up the paper pattern.

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